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Author
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Topic: advice on barrel break in
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southern oregon shooter
PAKMAN
Member # 728
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posted November 19, 2005 06:54 AM
Bought new Remington VS SF II in 223.What method is best for break in if stainless needs it? Also is standard ball ammo ok for break in procedure? Thanks in advance for any help. John.
Posts: 3 | From: central point,oregon | Registered: Nov 2005
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Leonard
HMFIC
Member # 2
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posted November 19, 2005 08:59 AM
Welcome to the New Huntmasters, southern oregon shooter. Glad to have you on board.
Breaking in barrels is an area where there is a lot of differences of opinion. You can't go wrong to use the method suggested by the individual barrel maker, if you don't have a plan of your own.
I have not heard that stainless barrels require a different method? Stainless steels, usually an alloy that contains various amounts of nickel, along with other ingredients, are not particularly hard, but resist heat better than chrome moly, therefore, you get less throat errosion, especially in hot chamberings.
Some people don't even bother with a "break in" per se, but if you can combine it with a sighting in, and load development, I see no harm and a lot of potential benefit.
So, what I do is start with a pristine barrel and fire one shot. Clean thoroughly, adjust your sights and fire a second shot followed by a complete barrel cleaning; and including any scope adjustments required to get you where you want to be on target.
I would fire at least 9 or 10 single shots followed by thorough cleaning before firing groups of three. You might require three or four 3 shot groups before your break in is complete....depending? Cleaning between three shot groups.
This last barrel I have been messing with is starting to shoot okay, but it has had more like 80 rounds?
How I clean a barrel: Start with a new brass brush on a one piece rod and use your favorite brand of solvent, Butch's, Shooters Choice, Hoppe's copper, or Remington Klean bore, whatever?
1) twenty strokes with a brass brush followed by a wet patch on a pointed jag, not one of those things with a slot. (maybe two?)
2) follow this with as many dry patches as you need before they start coming out completely clean. Let the patches drop free at the muzzle, or catch them and open them up to check for dark streaks in the grooves.
If you need a half a dozen clean patches or so; start over with the wet solvent and the brass brush.
(note: clean your brass brush and wipe your rod with spray brake cleaner in a can, available from auto parts stores. You don't want to put a dirty brush down an almost clean bore. And, be careful with this stuff, flip it off the brush when clean because it may attack wood finishes or some plastics? I have never had a problem, but there is no denying that some solvents are no good with some things.
I'd use a rag under the stock to collect any spillings that might get into the action or on the finish. If you are careful, the brake cleaner will be dried up and not a factor. For sure, don't use carburetor cleaner, that stuff is way too agressive for cleaning a brass brush, or any other gun parts, as far as I'm concerned.
Most solvents attack the bore brush, so they don't last too long. When they start pushing easy, throw them away. Always wipe the drips from around the muzzle with the patch.
I always use two cleaning rods, one with a brush and the other with the jag, saves a bunch of screwing in and out, changing tips. I also use a chamber mop on a pistol cleaning rod when I'm finished. I have been using an adjustable bore guide for several years instead of separate guides for every rifle, and keeping track of which is which?
Didn't mean to write a book, but I hope there is some benefit if you take the time to read it. If anybody has some better ideas, don't be shy. I'm hardly an expert on cleaning a bore, just trying to help avoid some common mistakes and a few common practices without much merit.
Good hunting. LB
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EL BEE Knows It All and Done It All.
Don't piss me off!
Posts: 32368 | From: Upland, CA | Registered: Jan 2003
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southern oregon shooter
PAKMAN
Member # 728
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posted November 19, 2005 06:33 PM
Leonard,Thanks for taking the time to reply,I really appreciate it!I was thinking about breaking in my barrel with Rem UMC ball ammo then after that starting my load development with the 50 grain V-Max bullets I bought.I will try your method on the break in ,it sounds pretty logical.Thanks again.John.
Posts: 3 | From: central point,oregon | Registered: Nov 2005
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Jack Roberts
unknown comic
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posted November 19, 2005 07:50 PM
Years ago I went through various break in schemes. I finally decided it is a total waste of time and valuable barrel life. The barrels with no break in shoot and clean just as well and I get the full life out of them.
I don't mean to imply that barrels don't break in, they certainly do, but they break in just as well from regular use.
IIRC It is Shilen that claims that the whole "break in" thing was started as a way to sell more barrels by a guy he trained to make barrels.
The only break in needed is a through cleaning BEFORE the first shot.
Jack
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Leonard
HMFIC
Member # 2
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posted November 19, 2005 08:01 PM
Well, regardless of how you view the break in routine, you can use the above info as a guide for cleaning your barrel. It never hurts to shoot a clean barrel. LB
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EL BEE Knows It All and Done It All.
Don't piss me off!
Posts: 32368 | From: Upland, CA | Registered: Jan 2003
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UTcaller
NEVADA NIGHT FIGHTER
Member # 8
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posted November 19, 2005 09:21 PM
I have pretty much done like Jack has said on all my new barrels.Give it a good cleaning first thing and just start shooting.Good Hunting Chad
Posts: 1708 | From: Utah | Registered: Jan 2003
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sparkyibewlocal440
Knows what it's all about
Member # 397
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posted November 22, 2005 10:33 PM
It's my understanding,when you breck in that bore you are actually smoothing out the machine marks left by the reamer.If these rough spots are'nt smoothed out with a good breck in procedure,said area will collect copper from the bullets fired and will effect accuracy.Using a dose of "Sweets" after you think your bore is clean will let you know if it really is clean or not.As for cleaning,I've watched a lot of guys at match shoots clean 'em pretty much the same way.2 wet patches soaked in Butch's bore shine to get the bulk of the crude out followed by 10 strokes or so with a brush soaked in Butchs,followed by two wet patches and let set 5 minutes.2 more wet patches followed by dry patches.Always use a jag.The best part is to never fire a bullet in a dry bore.After drying the bore,use a patch with a few drops of "Kroil"penetrating oil to LIGHTLY lube the bore prior to that first shot after cleaning.
Posts: 170 | From: So. Cal | Registered: Sep 2004
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squrilsniper
PAKMAN
Member # 753
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posted December 10, 2005 01:54 PM
If I was you I would go talk to Darren at the Bullet Depot, it is just down the street from the range. He should be able to give you some good loads to try out. and awnser most of you'r questions.
born and raised in deadford
Posts: 3 | From: Middleton ID. | Registered: Dec 2005
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