This is topic Many More Trapping Questions... in forum Predator forum at The New Huntmastersbbs!.
To visit this topic, use this URL:
https://www.huntmastersbbs.com/cgi-bin/cgi-ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000395
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 26, 2004, 11:27 AM:
I have a bunch more questions relating to trapping.
I am still crunching numbers, and I need a more concrete supply list.
What are the "essentials" all trappers need to have (even those who only use cage traps).
There is a lot of stuff to choose from, a lot of it I have no clue what it is for.
On a sifter, what size mesh do you use? I have a prospectors screen, it's like a small gold pan with 3/8" mesh, is this too big?
Since I won't have to hold an animal to release it from a restraining trap, do I still need a catch pole, and does anyone have a plan for a homemade one?
Has anyone tried using a gravity door trap (like a colony muskrat trap) for raccoons? Are they smart enough to lift the door, and release themselves?
I can make them myself and save a lot of dough, but it's not worth the savings if $10 raccoons keep letting themselves go.
Live trap prices are unreal... I never expected to have to pay hundreds and hundreds of dollars just to run a short line.
It could take several years just to pay off the equipment. And that's without figuring in trap theft, which (with large cage traps) is more likely than other types of sets.
I got my T&pc Mag yesterday, in it is a projection for fur prices this coming season.
It was dismal.
In my area (7a), prices are low, particularly on bobcats (which is where I thought the big money would come in).
Does anyone know of a way to tell the sizes of your pelts, say a #2 Raccoon, how big is that?
What about a pack basket, is it a needed item or a luxury? I had actually considered using a chicken wire basket on an old pack frame, or just an old backpack.
I keep thinking of using a piece of plastic sewer pipe to hide my smaller traps inside, I could dye/camo them, or even overbury them with debris making a "semi-cubby" set.
These could also be capped at one end, and stuffed into the bank to appear like a drainage pipe. In my work installing septic systems I could accumulate a lot of 6", 12" and even 24" pipe scraps, for free.
Am I overthinking this? I am terrified of trap theft, it's like leaving $50 bills all over the woods.
I am sure I'll think of more, but I have already gone too long on this post.
Krusty
Posted by R.Shaw (Member # 73) on October 26, 2004, 03:15 PM:
Krusty,
I believe the sifter you described would work. I use 1/4 inch mesh myself. If you don't have any nontarget catches, you should not need a catch pole. But I would have one.
I have never tried the cage trap you described. I would give it a try, but deep down I believe some of the coons will release themselves.
For pvc sets for coons , you really don't need anything larger than 2 inches. The trap is set in front not inside.
Grades of coons in my area are measured from the tip of the nose down the side of the stretcher to where the fur quits. You will be close measuring them skinned only.
under 24 small
24-26 medium
26-28 large
28-30 x large
30-32 xx large
above 33 xxx large
Randy
[ October 26, 2004, 06:55 PM: Message edited by: R.Shaw ]
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 26, 2004, 05:28 PM:
Randy,
Thanks, that does help some.
I don't know if you realize it, but I have to use cage traps by law.
I figure I am going to need three sizes of traps, some for mink/weasle sized critters, some muskrat, and some for coons.
I would put the whole cage inside of the pipe (or under half of a pipe, sorta like the lid on a weasle box set
), so for a 10" x 12" coon cage it would take a fairly large diameter.
A way to hide them (from people), in plain sight, so to speak.
I am leary of using colony traps for muskrats, because I cannot use drowning sets, and I am afraid they'd fight and damage each other too much. And I don't think muskrats are worth enough to spend a lot on single 'rat traps (though I can make them myself). Besides the area I have my eye on probably doesn't hold many, if any, muskrats.
I don't know what kind of "PVC pipe set" you're talking about. Do you mean with some sort of coon cuffs in the end of a pipe, baited and kicked into the creek bank?
That could be a sweet set.
I love this trapping stuff, the possibilities are endless. Each time I read about another type of set "I know a place that would be perfect for that".
Krusty
Posted by Tim Behle (Member # 209) on October 26, 2004, 08:29 PM:
Krusty,
If you are only going to be using cage traps, then you won't have any need for a sifter, or pipes. With all of those trees you have up there, just pile up some brush and leaves or pine needles around your traps. You can completely enclose everything but the door. You won't need any type of release pole with a cage trap either, but you should carry an old sheet to cover the trap if you catch a skunk. Just lay the sheet over the trap and you can carry the cage to where ever you want.
Set your traps on sign, but off of the beaten path, to help cut down on trap theft.
Don't bother with colony traps for muskrats. They are designed to be drowning traps and any living muskrats will attract mink and you will end up with eaten rats. Plus if the traps slips down in the water, you will drown them and a jerk C.O. might site you for it.
If you are going to build your own cage traps, stay away from the cheap rabbit hutch cage material that you will find in the local hardware store. A coon can rip out the side in just a few minutes. If you build gravity operated traps, be sure to build the type with washers that drop down and lock the doors. Then stake the traps upright, or a large coon will simply roll the trap over and release himself. The best cage trap I have ever found for raccoons is the Havahart 1079 model. Many larger coons will reach in for the bait and the spring loaded door will smack him into the butt, making him jump forward, instead of backing out.
For raccoon bait, the best cage trap bait I have ever found for coons is jumbo marshmallows. For muskrats, use lettuce, carrots and some Anise oil as a lure. For Mink, use muskrat meat, and keep it fairly fresh.
The best way to help cut down on theft, is to check them just before daylight, and take care to not be seen carrying a trap in to a set location. Curious people will follow, and the A$$holes will steal the traps.
Posted by Blak coyote (Member # 415) on October 26, 2004, 10:57 PM:
Here's a link to a few trapping sites,that might help. coyotes"R"us
Trapline community
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 26, 2004, 11:37 PM:
Thanks guys.
Tim,
Yeah I figure I can make the 'rat and smaller cages, myself.
I read in the T&pc yearbook of a way to prevent weasles or mink from forcing a gravity trap open.
I also planned to stake the traps in place to keep them from being rolled over
But the coon cages I figured I'd go with commercial units, because coons are bigger, stronger, smarter, and more valuable.
I thought I needed (or it would help) to sift dirt over the wire cage bottom.
Yeah covering the cage in a brushpile, or finding a natural cubby, is probably going to be the easy way to go. I always overthink things.
Blak Coyote,
Thanks those are good links too, my trapping favorites folder is getting pretty full.
Krusty
Posted by Cal Taylor (Member # 199) on October 27, 2004, 07:33 AM:
Krusty,
Tim seems to understand what you are trying to do and gave you great info. You don't need a sifter for anything to do with cage traps. Spend your money on your traps and your lure/bait. Don't worry about the cost. Just spend all you have and then you will work harder to get it back. LOL!. At least thats my theory. I've spent close to a grand so far this year on lure, bait, new traps, snare building equipment, etc. and I have yet to set a trap. But I'm sure I will make it all back, maybe even with a little profit.
Posted by Tim Behle (Member # 209) on October 27, 2004, 04:32 PM:
quote:
Just spend all you have and then you will work harder to get it back. LOL!. At least thats my theory.
My phone used to get disconnected every September, because I'd go to the NTA convention every August and spend all the money I'd saved up, plus everything my wife have saved up to pay bills with!
Posted by Norm (Member # 240) on October 27, 2004, 05:05 PM:
Krusty, great advice in this thread. Those Marshmellows are great attractors to say the least...
If you are going to trap, you need to not generate a profit and loss statement... Do it because you want to. Some years it will create a profit, some years it will cost you; Have fun with it...
It is like elk hunting; If you actually figured the cost of the meat per pound... you would not elk hunt.... If you try and justify trapping... don't start... It will save you anxiety....
Posted by Tim Behle (Member # 209) on October 27, 2004, 07:14 PM:
Cal,
What size of cable do you like and what type of locks?
Posted by Cal Taylor (Member # 199) on October 27, 2004, 07:32 PM:
Tim,
I'm using 1/16" crucible garroting cable with cam locks. I also use a 90 lb S hook type breakaway device and the 23 lb choke springs. They seem to work well on cats and coyotes but you have to have them where you have some entanglement to completely avoid chew outs. I did have one coyote chew out last year, but most are dead so fast that there isn't even a burn out or any sign of a struggle. The CG cable is smoother and faster than the aircraft type 7X7 cable and it is a little stiffer so you get a nice loop with very little teardrop.
Posted by R.Shaw (Member # 73) on October 27, 2004, 07:48 PM:
Cal,
Are you sure it is a 90 lb BAD? That sounds very light to me. We aren't allowed to use choke springs , so maybe you can go lighter with these?We are requried to use 280 lb break aways. In other words that is the upper limit.
Randy
Posted by wdhunt40 (Member # 184) on October 27, 2004, 09:20 PM:
Krusty to get started if you can get the pvc pipe in long enough length use it for the trap body, fasten and end cap to it and sliding drop door for the front. Bait them set them brush them in good and you would be set. The twenty four inch dia would work well for cats in your area.
Wayne
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 27, 2004, 10:29 PM:
Cal,
Yeah Tim understands this way better than I do, and I am lucky he's taking the time to explain it to me.
"Spend all you have", too late, I don't have any money for this... lol
I am going to have to be really really creative.
Norm,
I gave up steelhead fishing, because they were running me about $100 a pound.
I sure don't expect to turn a big profit, or any at all, but it would be nice to have the equipment pay for itself before it wears out.
It's definitely something I'd do, to avoid more serious stuff.
Tim,
You mentioned some type of washer locking dealio for the doors? Can you elaborate?
I spent the better part of the evening looking for cage trap plans, and sturdy cage wire, with little or no luck.
The bucket traps are looking better all the time.
Wayne,
I saw those "ends" for PVC pipe traps once a year or so ago, but I cannot for the life of me locate them now.
The Snare Shop sell the whole traps, but they have raised the price a lot more than just the additional cost of the pipe (I remember them costing about 25 bucks in kit form), and I don't want to pay for the pipe or the shipping (when I can scrap it from work for free).
Thanks again everyone, I am pretty stoked about this, despite the State trying everything it can to discourage me.
Krusty
Posted by Cal Taylor (Member # 199) on October 28, 2004, 06:00 PM:
Randy,
That is what they are but it is a confusing system to say the least. Ours have to be 225 or less by state law. With the 90 pounders and the spring they will break out at way over 90 lbs. If you use the heavier ones they won't release deer. Most of the info and testing I get comes from O'Gorman. Thats his reccomendation, so thats what I use. His claims are that with the spring, 110's open at 225 lbs and 90's open at 160 lbs. 150's open at 250lbs.
Obviously the choke spring must make a huge difference in shock being absorbed and makes it harder for the b.a.d. to work.
[ October 28, 2004, 06:06 PM: Message edited by: Cal Taylor ]
Posted by Dave (Member # 402) on October 28, 2004, 07:17 PM:
Krusty,
The best coon bait I have found is you get 5lbs. of smelt and 4oz. of shell fish oil. Grind the smelt and mix in the oil. I should make a gallon of bait. It works well in the dakota's on our coon. As far as live trap's go if you have a welder available to you you can make the frame for a few dollar's. Use quality mesh or a coon will destroy it! If you want I could get you the plan's for the trap. Trap's that sell for $50 plus I can build for $15-$20. Not counting my time beeing worth anything. When you go after mink You need to desent your trap's and handle them with trapping glove's. They will smell your sent on the trap and you will be left withempty trap 's. Trapping is alot of fun. Done it since I was a kid, and I am passing what I know on to my 6 yr old son. He tries to be a big help(lol). I do it for the fun, the profit is a bonus.
Dave
Posted by R.Shaw (Member # 73) on October 28, 2004, 07:50 PM:
Cal,
Thanks for the reply. That makes sense.
Randy
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 28, 2004, 08:13 PM:
Dave,
I can weld alrighty, one of my best talents.
If you could hook me up with some sort of plan I'd sure appreciate it.
Krusty
Posted by Cal Taylor (Member # 199) on October 29, 2004, 06:54 AM:
Well Krusty with no money I would recomend watching Gilligan's Island re-runs. I remember one show that would work for you. If you don't remember it I will explain it as good as I can. You dig a pit about 6'X6' and about 8' deep. Make sure the sides are straight up and down so nothing can get up the sides. Cover with palm leaves, if you don't have palm leaves, then ferns will probably work. Bait with a trail of marshmallows leading to your pit and check daily. If you want to make it a lethal trap, you put pointy sticks in the bottom, but due to liability reasons, I wouldn't recomend the pointy sticks.
Posted by Steve Craig (Member # 12) on October 29, 2004, 07:00 AM:
KK,
Check out www.trapperman.com and make a post about cage trapping and also check out the archives as well. A fellow by the name of Stacy Yancy traps Calf. using only live traps there. Very knowledgeable fellow and he will help you out. With a little enginnering on your part, you can come up with a cheap live trap that will work great on cats for under $7 each. You just have to think about it some is all.
Steve
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 29, 2004, 10:54 AM:
Cal,
Yer pretty funny!
Actually the "Gold and Fish" pamphlet put out by our state's geology dept (the rule book for mineral prospectors) clearly has outlawed your "Gilligan pit".
Any hole more that 4 feet deep must be "ramped or filled" before leaving the excavation site, to prevent entrapment of wildlife.
And besides if I remember it right, all Gilligan ever caught, was Gilligan!
I will have to get busy, and create the financing to trap, if I want to.
No money, and "no way" don't always match up.
Steve,
Thanks for the advise, I'll try to look up Mr. Yancy.
I have noticed trappers are VERY helpful, much in the same way and for the same reasons climbers feel compelled to mentor others. To protect the way of life. If new people mess it up, it can all be taken away from everyone.
Right now engineering a live catch cage trap is tough, I don't even have a basic grasp of the "works", I don't know that I have ever seen one up close or thought about the workings of one.
I figured I would do some research, try to figure out who makes the best traps, buy one or two used, and learn to work them.
And that most of my first seasons would be spent concentrating on the smaller traps and critters. The traps are cheaper, lighter, easier to hide, and easier to make myself.
Tim,
Washer lock dealio???
__________________________________________________
Right now this is all just conjecture, the state hasn't gotten back to me about my application for educational materials, and I still have to take and pass the trapping test (even getting in the office to take the test seems something for which they have no actual plan in place).
I believe they don't think anyone would actually go through all the hassles.
This is all just to help me look before I leap.
I sure appreciate everyones help, and Leonard letting me use this forum to play this out.
Thanks again!
Krusty 
[ October 29, 2004, 10:58 AM: Message edited by: Krustyklimber ]
Posted by Cdog911 (Member # 7) on October 29, 2004, 03:08 PM:
Figure 4 deadfall. Put all those damned trees you can't see the coyotes thru to good use. Now, somebody drive up there and show him how to make one. They're free.
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 29, 2004, 05:35 PM:
Lance,
I think I already learned that trap in Outward Bound, that's like you'd use for deer right?
A "killing set" by definition is not legal here, without a permit. I am sure that wouldn't go over well on an ADC Permit application either. lol
quote:
Now, somebody drive up there and show him how...
I think you should get in your truck, and drive on out here, we'll go hunting for a few days (using your calls and mine) and run my trapline a couple times, then you can write a couple articles about it.
Krusty
Posted by Cdog911 (Member # 7) on October 29, 2004, 06:02 PM:
Dang, Krusty, I wrote and rewrote several different answers to ya, but I kept hearing my mother's voice in the back of my mind, bless her soul, and I think I'll take her advice on this one... "nothing at all." ![[Cool]](cool.gif)
[ October 29, 2004, 06:04 PM: Message edited by: Cdog911 ]
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 29, 2004, 06:49 PM:
Lance,
Geeze man, I am sorry.
I didn't mean any of what I said in a bad way, and I'd truely enjoy taking you hunting and trapping here (even though I am fairly sure you really don't like me, and would never accept
).
And I really thought it would make for interesting reading too. Something like "New Trapper in a Cage", and/or "Hunting the Black Timber", I'd love to read both articles.
I am sorry you feel you have to "walk on eggs" when replying to me, I can and have taken everything you said in a good way and I haven't run across anything my Mom would be upset over (sometimes, when I deserve it, she yells at me too
).
It's just that everybody says somebody else should come "show me", and very few others have ever been hunting with me.
I figured you have more gas money than I do, and a truck. And that writing an article or two might be a way for you to offset those costs.
There's a spare bedroom at my Dad's house, and I am absolutely sure you'd be welcome, and have a place to stay.
Please, consider it an honest invitation.
Krusty
Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on October 29, 2004, 08:25 PM:
Good attitude, K. Don't take it personal. The man has a family and a full time job. It's too impractical, even if somebody donated the gas. Would you drive to Kansas to teach him rock climbing?
Why not sweet talk Cal? Oops, I mean, Curt!
Good hunting. LB
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 30, 2004, 01:21 AM:
Leonard,
Thanks, I have tried very hard lately to be polite.
There's no rockclimbing in Kansas! lol
But hell yes, if someone donated the gas money, I could (*still) climb for a few days, AND I could make a few bucks for writing a story about it, I'd go!
We could go up to the Council Bluffs area to climb, Mr C. could come hunting with us, it'd be a freakin blast!
*Best of all, I think in person, Lance and I could put an end to any animosity between us.
How much is a T&pc article worth? Wouldn't be hard to cover 4-5 days of my wages. lol
The invitation was really related to Mr. Cronk's mentioning I should travel to Kansas, use the calls I make myself, and hopefully kill my first coyote. And that Lance could go along and photograph, so he could write an article about it (for publicity for me and my calls).
I am not selling calls anymore, but I thought Lance could find some interesting material, and see some beautiful, rugged, very different country than Kansas, if he did come out this way.
And I was ribbing him about telling somebody else to, most of all.
As far as Curt is concerned, I don't really know what I ever did to deserve the cold shoulder from him. When we met in person it seemed we got along great. I like the guy, and have a lot of respect for him.
Anyone who feeds me, for a whole weekend, has a friend for life.
He's the one who decided that was not the case, and I am not going to beg for someone to hunt with, ever again (remember how well that has (*not) worked for me in the past?
).
That's all water under the bridge now, I understand I can get on people's nerves, and I am working on that.
Back to "teaching Krusty to trap",
Krusty
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 30, 2004, 11:51 AM:
Steve,
Thanks a million, for the tip on Mr. Yancy!
I spent a good deal of time in that past couple days searching and reading on trapperman.com.
You're right Mr. Yancy obviously knows his stuff, really well.
I think you and Wayne are right, I could build my own large traps, and you guys have boosted my confidence a lot.
I wish we had a heli-arc welder, I'd love to be able to make my trap parts from aluminum, here in Boeingland scrap aluminum is easy to find.
But scrap steel is way more economical (even free).
I think the thing I'll most want to get, is a small digital camera, so I can keep good catch records, and be able to photograph sets.
Krusty
Posted by Rich (Member # 112) on October 31, 2004, 06:23 AM:
Krusty,
My best live traps are made from hog panels and are about 12" square and 48" long for racoon. They are heavy to tote around but they sure are strong. I am going to try to post a photo of a live trap I saw on the internet. It looks good except I would like it to be a foot longer.
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 31, 2004, 11:54 AM:
Rich,
Thanks, looks like "borrowing" the photo worked.
Gempler's huh?
I could see where it needs to be longer, that door could drop on a coons butt, and he could back out before the door latched.
Hog panels?
Gotta remember, I am a city boy. lol
I as looking at rabbit fence (the kind that has tighter mesh at the bottom and a looser weave at the top) to make my smaller "panless" style cage traps.
And I still thing making guillotine doors and end caps for large sewer pipe is going to work best for me for the larger traps, because I can get the pipe for free and make just the doors.
Like these ones the Snare Shop carries 
Krusty
Posted by Rich (Member # 112) on October 31, 2004, 02:14 PM:
Krusty,
The hog pannel is made of 1/4" steel rod. Works great, but would be expensive if you have to buy it. I got mine for free from a brother-in-law. The large PVC pipe will work ok if it is the schedule 40 (thick walls) stuff. If you can get some 16"-18" pipe, you could make some dandy bobcat traps too. Fish scraps make dandy bait for coon and cats.
Posted by Rich (Member # 112) on October 31, 2004, 02:20 PM:
Krusty,
The late Wayne Soper used to make his bobcat traps from hog panel. He made them 2'x 2' square and 5' long, and live rooster's were used as bait. Pretty cool. I have a home video around here that shows some of Wayne's traps, the live roosters, some live coyotes & cats and some really good snare sets.
Posted by Tim Behle (Member # 209) on October 31, 2004, 03:22 PM:
Krusty,
I've looked allover for a good clear picture of the washers used to lock some swing down doors, but can't find one. Of the two main types of swing down doors, one type uses washers to lock the door in place, the other requires the door to pas a point in the cage floor and latch. You don't want the type that has to latch itself. A large coon will not always have his butt inside of the cage, and when the door hits him, he will simply back out.
The Williams traps you see advertised in the TPC are the washer type and are good strong traps.
Be very careful if you buy the mesh used in a rabbit hutch for making a trap. The welds usually aren't strong enough to hold many wild animals.
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on October 31, 2004, 07:11 PM:
Rich,
Thanks, yeah that hog panel sounds too pricey for me.
I am actually looking to use the schedule 80 green sewer pipe, or the black double wall corrugated storm drain pipe (like they use for road culverts).
I have a bunch of fish fillets, from when my freezer crashed, that I saved for crawdad and crab bait. I can use it for coons instead.
Wayne Soper, I'll make a note of his name in my logue.
I went scouting and working on a trail in the area I plan to trap the other day, so I figured that was the time to start a logue book.
Yeah I have read some about "babysitting chickens", seems like that would have to work eventually. Pigeons would be another good decoy, and you can always get more.
Tim,
I sure appreciate the effort, I never did find any good shots of a washer lock trap either.
But I did come to understand from reading at trapperman they were superior.
That's okay, I think I have a plan for a pipe cage about 99% worked out (still working on a latch). I have to swing by the steel yard and pick up some channel stock and a couple sticks of 1/4" roundstock, and I am ready to start work on a prototype (they're closed Sundays).
Thanks for the tip on the rabbit cage wire, I have heard of minks breaking in (to eat the rabbits), so it wouldn't suprise me they could break out.
Krusty
Posted by Dave (Member # 402) on October 31, 2004, 08:11 PM:
Krusty,
I have yet to find a digital camera to send you pictures of the traps I make. They use washers to hold the door shut. To save money I use nut's with the 1/4" rod run through it. My frames are made of 1/4" rod also. My wife just informed me that I have a camera to use and I will be sending pictures of my version of the livetrap that I use. My traps are about 16 1/2" square and 36" long. Don't get discouraged Krusty this is supposed to be fun.
Dave
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on November 01, 2004, 10:41 AM:
Dave,
Thanks, I look forward to seeing some photos of what ya got, I am sure it'll help me. A picture really is worth a thousand words.
Discouraged, not me.
I am enjoying learning this stuff, even if I never put any of it to use on a trapline.
It's helping me to understand how animals live in their world, and that can only make me a better hunter and outdoorsman.
Knowledge is power.
Krusty
Posted by Tim Behle (Member # 209) on November 03, 2004, 05:20 PM:
Krusty,
Not to get your hopes up, but they are still doing the recount and if you end up with Dino Rossi as your first Republican Governor in 24 years, you stand a real good chance of getting trapping back in the State of Washington.
Tim
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on November 03, 2004, 06:08 PM:
Tim,
It doesn't really get my hopes up. I guess it's one of those "You can't miss, what you didn't know you didn't have" deals.
I don't feel that stifled by the laws (as it pertains to trap types), there are many other obstacles in my way that could be harder to overcome.
The red tape I must cut through, seems to be tied in a knot, and it's looking like I may never get my trapping license (at least not before the season is already underway).
As far as Rossi, I don't know why his election would change anything, that alone will not put the trapping ban back on the table.
Locke promised he was going to sign it, if Rossi made that same promise... so what? They all lie.
This state (and indeed this country) runs on public opinion, and the public voted for the ban, until the public votes otherwise they won't overturn it.
Not if they want to be re-elected.
Krusty
Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on November 03, 2004, 06:39 PM:
K, maybe all politicians lie, but Democrats are considerably better at it.
I'll tell you one thing. Swartzenegger(sp) promised to reverse the tripling of the vehicle registration tax, his first day in office. Guess what? He did.
So, if a new Governor promises to dump a bad law, he can do it....especially if he's a Republican!
Good hunting. LB
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on November 04, 2004, 11:37 PM:
Leonard,
No matter what, once they're done counting the votes, both candidates are way better choices than the last guy.
So it turns out I can use some types of "non body gripping kill traps", and they have to be checked every 72 hours by law.
That changes a lot.
Looks like muskrats are back in the deal.
Krusty
Posted by Tim Behle (Member # 209) on November 06, 2004, 06:46 AM:
Krusty,
If you can get the foot traps back, you can have great mornings like I'm having today. I only have three traps out. But I had fox in two of them this morning.

On the left is a Grey fox, who got a little too curious and too close to a bobcat set. On the right is the annoying little Kitt fox I have been swearing at since last spring. He had the habit of circling the house at two AM and barking at the dogs, who barked back and kept me awake for hours at a time.
Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on November 06, 2004, 07:45 AM:
That's a great side by side comparison, answers a question on the other thread.
Tim, is that you, in the middle? At first, I thought it was Jeb Clampett?
Good hunting. LB
Posted by Tim Behle (Member # 209) on November 06, 2004, 08:53 AM:
Y'all just love my hat don't you! My mouth was open in the picture because I was telling my wife I should probably run in and change hats before she snapped the picture, but it was too late.
Grey fox are plenty small, but those kitts remind me of a yearling house cat in a fox fur coat.
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on November 06, 2004, 11:13 AM:
Tim,
The real hitch I am still up against, is getting my license, right now I cannot use any type of trap at all.
The season is six days old, and I still haven't heard word one, from the state.
No matter what type of traps I use, I will never catch a grey fox or a kit fox, just like calling coyotes, can't trap what ain't there.
Congrats on catching the "nuisance" fox, that must be pretty satisfying. So I guess those were trapped on private property?
Leonard,
Question from another thread?
Krusty
Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on November 06, 2004, 11:29 AM:
Yeah, look at "pic is worth 1000 words" by HarleyD.
I suggest you call the slackers in the F&G department.
Good hunting. LB
Posted by Dave (Member # 402) on November 06, 2004, 03:50 PM:
Krusty,
I am trying to email you pictures but it will not go through. Will you please email me your email address so I can get you the pictures of the live trap that I built myself.
Dave
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on November 06, 2004, 04:48 PM:
Leonard,
I saw the "1000 words" thread right after I asked... yer right Tim's pic clears that up.
Kit fox must be what they invented them "super duper BB guns" for, eh?
Yup, I figured when I didn't see anything by Friday afternoon, I'd better call em (on Monday).
I thought the season didn't start til Nov 15th, but the new regs are out, and the season has changed.
Dave,
I am sorry to hear you're having trouble, sending and posting pictures can be difficult.
Try my (former) business account, lots of room there
, my hotmail is probably too full.
krustykriers@yahoo.com
Thanks for tryin'
Krusty
Posted by Dave (Member # 402) on November 08, 2004, 04:14 PM:
Krusty,
Did you get those pictures that I sent? I hope that they are helpful in your quest of trapping only after the miles of red tape that it sounds like you have to go through. Let me know.
Dave
Posted by Krustyklimber (Member # 72) on November 08, 2004, 06:26 PM:
Dave,
I just got in, and I am saving the pics now.
Thanks a lot!
I see ya got a lil help from a friend, thanks go out to them too.
Duh, washer lock, one of those "light bulb" moments. Now I get it.
Krusty
UBB.classicTM
6.3.0