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Author
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Topic: Trappin' stuff
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Krustyklimber
prefers the bunny hugger pronunciation: ky o tee
Member # 72
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posted May 30, 2007 08:20 PM
I have been working on my traps, to get ready way before I am late for the upcoming season.
Baseplating, laminating, replacing chains and cables, and building drowner slides.
I had to drive past Thompson Snares to get home from the line, and Dick Sinrud has been totally helpful.
This spring Tim and Ronnie told me how to "make" a #11 longspring.
Here's what I came up with;
It's a Diamond #21, with "frame jaws" and a second spring added to it.
I had to modify the base a bunch, to get the second spring to fit, but it works like a charm.
I filed the trigger down so the pan sits level and low, and it's a hair trigger
It's tied off with a 1/16th cable, two swivels, and a tree-lock.
Yep, it's really fast, and it grabbed and held onto my gawd damn thumb like I could not believe! ![[Eek!]](eek.gif)
Some mink is gonna get it good!
So I have a question on setting it.
Let's say I make a dirthole at the water level, when I place my trap in the bed, should I have the springs facing in or out of the hole?
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I made a big tub of lye today, and got my rusty traps soaking overnight, getting ready for speed dip this weekend.
And I am going to trade off the last of my fur this week, for some new traps and supplies.
I got four XXL beavers, and six 'rats at Moyle's getting garment tanned. I should see them soon.
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I got a question for 3-toes.
Do you know if Craig O'Gorman still makes the "coyote armegeddon" snares?
I found his ph# online, but I didn't know if I should just call him out of the blue?
I am trying to get a license to trap on the Yakima Nation, it's still the wild west, and I can use (real) traps and snares there.
I'm also considering trapping Idaho, as a non-resident, this year.
Thanks,
Krusty 
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Think about how stupid the average person is, then realize that half of them are stupider than that!
Posts: 1912 | From: Deep in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia | Registered: Jan 2003
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TA17Rem
Hello, I'm the legendary Tim Anderson, Field Marshall, Southern Minneesota Sector
Member # 794
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posted May 30, 2007 08:34 PM
Krusty; are you refering to the Amberg snares. If so , yes they are still being made. Another good snare is made by Minn. trapline products..
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What if I told you, the left wing and right wing both belong to same bird!
Posts: 5062 | From: S.D. | Registered: Jan 2006
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Tim Behle
Administrator MacNeal Sector
Member # 209
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posted May 31, 2007 06:12 AM
Krusty,
Face your springs out to help keep your focal point ( the hole ) smaller
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Personally, I carry a gun because I'm too young to die and too old to take
an ass kickin'.
Posts: 3160 | From: Five Miles East of Vic, AZ | Registered: Jun 2003
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varmit hunter
Knows what it's all about
Member # 37
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posted May 31, 2007 06:45 AM
Krusty. You are going to love that trap. Fast as one of DAA's rifles.
I used to set them underwater in front of a cubby in a drain ditch. I would cut a bush tie my wire to it and stick it back in the ditch bank.
Set six in one ditch about 500 yards one evening. When I hit the Q beam just before daylight the next morning. I had five pairs of eyes shining back.
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Make them pay for the wind.
Posts: 932 | From: Orange,TX | Registered: Jan 2003
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3 Toes
El Guapo
Member # 1327
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posted May 31, 2007 07:58 AM
Hey K,
O'Gorman still ***** snares. You can call and order any time. They are not Ambergs. O'G uses cam locks, S hook BADs, and a heavy choke spring. You can get Amberg locks or complete snares with Amberg locks from John Graham and they work well also. I can get you either phone # if you need.
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Violence may not be the best option....
But it is still an option.
Posts: 1034 | From: out yonder | Registered: Apr 2007
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Az-Hunter
Hi, I'm Vic WELCOME TO THE U.S. Free baloney sandwiches here
Member # 17
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posted May 31, 2007 08:47 AM
Give me an address Krusty....got half a dozen items you can use.
Posts: 1627 | From: 5 miles west of Tim | Registered: Jan 2003
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Krustyklimber
prefers the bunny hugger pronunciation: ky o tee
Member # 72
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posted May 31, 2007 04:04 PM
TA,
The O'Gorman's snares aren't like anything I'd seen before.
I read about them in and old issue of Trapper's World.
Tim,
That makes sense, to use the springs as "guiding".
So I'll want to swing the springs around to the other side, not just spin the trap around, right?
Don't I want the critter to come over the free jaw, not the trigger side?
Ronnie,
When I dug this old trap out of the box, I knew by lookin' at it someone else already loved it.
It was still waxy, and there was way less rust than some of the junk.
Now it's the trap that Ronnie and Tim helped me build, so it's extra special to me.
A whole team of dudes made this trap great.
3Toes,
Thanks.
I know most of the features that make these snares special. What are "S hook BADs"?
I like the looks of the Amberg locks, for slide rigs, but for now I've still got a bunch of the Thompson locks.
When I cleaned out my Grandma's shop, I found a good sized roll of 16" cable (maybe 1000 feet or more), so I am very interested in a 1/16th" snare (design) that would take medium sized critters.
What are your thoughts on these snares for 'cats?
Vic,
If you could, send me an e-mail, and I'll reply with my shipping address. I don't know your e-mail address?
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Can you guys tell I have the trapping bug?
Krusty
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Think about how stupid the average person is, then realize that half of them are stupider than that!
Posts: 1912 | From: Deep in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia | Registered: Jan 2003
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Melvin
Knows what it's all about
Member # 634
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posted May 31, 2007 06:06 PM
Krusty,BADS stands for[breakaway device system.]A breakaway device releases or breaksaway at varying pounds of pressure,allowing the cable loop to open and release any animal that can exert the necessary amount of force.Here in Pennsylvannia the breakaway device has to be rated at 350lbs. or less.I have no idea what it is in Oregon.The S or J hook is used as your breakaway device.The rating is the force it takes to open it or pop it off the breakaway stop.
Posts: 661 | From: PA. | Registered: Apr 2005
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3 Toes
El Guapo
Member # 1327
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posted May 31, 2007 06:30 PM
K, I use 1/16" alot. Depending on the cable. 7x7 is pretty limp but still works well on cats. 1x19 works well on cats or coyotes if you file teeth in you cam locks and use a choke spring. On the Thompsons you need to stick to bigger cable for coyotes. I like the Amberg really well for cats as it is super fast, but I don't believe it locks up as good as the camlocks with teeth filed in. For tail snaring I stick totally with 1/16 (1x19) and for fence snares I like 5/64" (1x19). Don't forget a swivel of some type. It really helps. I actually prefer the fishing (barrel type) swivels that are rated for 300 lbs at least. They should be available to you at a decent cost at any salt water fishing supply.
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Violence may not be the best option....
But it is still an option.
Posts: 1034 | From: out yonder | Registered: Apr 2007
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wdhunt40
Knows what it's all about
Member # 184
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posted May 31, 2007 08:54 PM
Krusty check out the snareshop.com good description and pictures of most all snares commercialy made snares.
Wayne
Posts: 11 | From: cheney wa. | Registered: Apr 2003
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Tim Behle
Administrator MacNeal Sector
Member # 209
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posted May 31, 2007 09:21 PM
Krusty, you can't swing the springs around on a double longspring, it'll make the loose jaw stick up. Most of what you read about having to have the dog in a certain position or it will throw the animals foot out of the trap is nothing more than superstition. I've caught critters with every possible dog position, most fired and empty traps are caused by too little pan tension. When people claim that you have to have the animal approach between the jaws, you can bet that it's a coil spring trapper who makes the claim. Leggett's step down set for redfox is a hell of a great set, and it's the only set that I can think of off hand that its is better to use a coil spring, than a DBLS.
Would you be interested in learning to make your own snares?
It must be cool to live so close to Thompson snares. I got my start in snaring as a little kid using their stuff and have always wanted to visit their shop. I've probably still got a few of his books around here somewhere.
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Personally, I carry a gun because I'm too young to die and too old to take
an ass kickin'.
Posts: 3160 | From: Five Miles East of Vic, AZ | Registered: Jun 2003
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Melvin
Knows what it's all about
Member # 634
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posted June 01, 2007 09:46 AM
Krusty,Tim,gave you some very good information in his post.This is one he gave that not to many trappers pay attention to [most fired and empty traps are caused by too little pan tension.] To me,this is VERY important.I set my traps to go off with 2 lbs. of pressure,i know a couple of excellent trappers that sets theirs at 3-4 lbs.You want the animal to commit some weight on the trap.Toe catches and missed animals are most generally the result of not enough pan pressure.The reason i keep my pan pressure down to 2 lbs,i want to take foxes as well as coyotes.If i'm after coyotes only,i set them at 3 lbs.
Posts: 661 | From: PA. | Registered: Apr 2005
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Krustyklimber
prefers the bunny hugger pronunciation: ky o tee
Member # 72
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posted June 01, 2007 03:19 PM
Melvin,
I was familiar with breakaways, I just wasn't smart enough to make the connection to the letters. ![[Razz]](tongue.gif)
Trap modification is something I've been studying pretty hard lately. Tim very often gives me good information, many times it's hidden, in an ordinary statement (as opposed to when he hits me with a brick).
I think I understand about pan tension. It's two-fold.
If you have no tension at all anything could set off the trap, a mouse, a falling leaf, or a bullfrog polywog (or you set it with a "long" trigger, so that it's less touchy).
With some tension, an animal is more "committed" to setting off the trap, and because the mouse didn't trip it your trap is more likely to still [i]be set/i] when your target shows up.
The other thing I understand about it, is that with some tension, you can set closer to a hair trigger, which in the case of a land trapper means you don't have to worry (as much) about pan covers because the trap will fire with very little movement (only in extreme cases, frozen rocky ground or wet clay soils, would some siftings underneath be likely to foul the pan).
And if the ground doesn't "cave in" it's less likely to make a critter (with really fast reflexes) jerk back, resulting in a toe catch or a miss altogether.
3Toes,
I am going to have to study up a bit on cable construction.
I don't know if I'll be able to use the cable I have for snares. It is 1/16th" 1x7.
It'll work great for swivelled tie offs for my smaller traps, and last me a lifetime.
I am a huge fan of the cable slides, and tree locked tie-offs, I didn't cut a piece off my roll of bailing wire at all last year, so I never poked a single hole in my finger, my glove, or my waders (with wire).
That is one of the best things Fred taught me.
Who am I kidding, when somebody teaches you a million things, how do you know what's best? ![[Smile]](smile.gif)
Off Topic; Are you "3Toes" on any other forums, like Trapperman?
Tim,
I was going to say I understood that I wouldn't be able to fold the springs around as far (to the free jaw side) because it would lift the jaw.
I figured that out with the beaver traps, you can only swing the jaws so far, then the spring stops lifting the trigger jaw, which stops lifting the dog against the trigger (and if the pan has no tension) the pan falls and the trap fires!
Then you do a undy check, to see if that really did scare the shit out of you. LOL
I see now, on the critter crawling over the dog/trigger side.
If a critter got missed, because the dog flipped his foot out, I'd say God was on his side that day, and I wouldn't take it personally.
Like I told 3T, I am not sure if I can use this cable for snares.
But heck yeah, I'm definitely interested in building anything I can, myself, for trapping.
This is where knowing how to weld is going to pay-off big. ![[Big Grin]](biggrin.gif)
Hey man, Thompson Snares is for sale (house, shop, inventory), and the highest paid Seattle city employee last year was a lineman... he made $242,000 for one year.
You could be Thompson.
Wayne,
Thanks, I them them in my favorites, but haven't looked at it since I decided to try land trapping next season.
Krusty
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Think about how stupid the average person is, then realize that half of them are stupider than that!
Posts: 1912 | From: Deep in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia | Registered: Jan 2003
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Krustyklimber
prefers the bunny hugger pronunciation: ky o tee
Member # 72
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posted June 18, 2007 08:34 PM
Trap modifications are fun.
Most of them yield instant results, in a lot of ways it's like tuning a rifle.
A bucket of vinegar and water is like a miracle. All my traps are clean and ready for dip (it hasn't been warm or low enough humidity yet).
The miricle in a bucket revealed a nice old one, a Triumph Kangaroo #1 jump trap, but it also revealed that some of the old stuff is beyond hope, like a #4 B&L dls that's too rusted to save.
I learned a new one, nightlatching.
I don't know what everyone else thinks about it, but I like it (now that I'm done doing it).
Combined with the proper pan tension (which eliminates any pan wobble), it is a huge improvement. To be able to precisely set the trigger, consistantly, will be a big step towards eliminating misses.
Vic,
The "items" showed up. Thanks
You didn't have to use your whole stamp collection, to send it, did you?
I've got teeth filed in the cam locks, like 3Toes suggested. That's a good modification, there's no sliding back up.
Are the nuts on them for "deer stops", or whatever stop length is desired, and are to be staked in place?
Since there's no "whammies" on these, should I use a "W" support wire (or some variation of it)?
Krusty
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Think about how stupid the average person is, then realize that half of them are stupider than that!
Posts: 1912 | From: Deep in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia | Registered: Jan 2003
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Krustyklimber
prefers the bunny hugger pronunciation: ky o tee
Member # 72
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posted June 29, 2007 12:24 PM
I wonder, could a guy make a living modifying traps?
After seeing what a good job the vinegar did, I went back through my box of old traps.
I instantly recognized a bigger Kangaroo trap, a #2, with cast jaws.
I've got it tensioned, nightlatched, and have replaced the old kinked chain and ancient "j-hook" (it's actually a flat piece of metal shaped like a letter J, not a round rivet).
I need more swivels and j-hooks... a dozen didn't get me very far.
Speed dip makes old crap, look like real traps!
I built a screened in box this week, so I can dry my castors without the flies ruining them (I'd been waiting for it to get warm out, but didn't know of the risk that maggots represented).
So, I still have some questions.
What do I do with all the oil sacks I saved? They don't go in my ground castor mix. Bobcat lure?
Should I dip these snares?
What's a good length for the deer stops?
After the snares are used, can I re-use the cam locks, or do they get thrashed too?
In the new issue of T&PC, I saw an ad for Victor-Onieda's Trapper Start-up Kits.
Is this a worthwhile way to go, or are these traps junk?
I have two goals for this coming season, to catch fifty beavers (just a little over twice as many as last year), and to catch a pine martin.
It looks like s pretty sure thing, that I'll be trapping in Idaho this fall, so maybe a coyote too!
If I do any calling, between now and trapping season, it'll be where the fur won't have value later, and just to give me something to do after I am all ready to go trapping.
I swore last year, after calling another bobcat just before the season opened, I was not calling until September 4th (*I'm not actively hunting bear this year).
Krusty
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Think about how stupid the average person is, then realize that half of them are stupider than that!
Posts: 1912 | From: Deep in the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia | Registered: Jan 2003
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