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Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on May 11, 2011, 01:58 PM:
 
I have had a number of custom barrels installed but never actually did it myself. In fact, I was in the shop when it was done, but for some reason, I didn't pay close attention.

I tried buying Mercers action wrench and barrel vice, but he wasn't selling.

So, I now have a Davidson action wrench and a Haydon barrel vice. Both barrels have identical contours and I don't think I need any shims? Where is the best location to grip the barrel, close to the chamber area or just about anywhere?

What I am wondering about is if I should use a never seize compound or some type of lubricant or it's better to have the threads dry?

Somebody around here has done this before. What should I do?

gh/lb
 
Posted by Lonny (Member # 19) on May 11, 2011, 02:54 PM:
 
Never done it either Leonard, but watched the g-smith remove a few of mine. Took him all of about 30 seconds. He clamped on the chamber area and used brass shims to keep from marring the barrel and receiver. He had to pull like heck to break it free and he is a pretty stout guy. I'd think it would be fairly easy to twist or bend a barrel if gripping anywhere but over the heavier chamber area.

Stainless is prone to galling for sure, but I have no idea if some Never Seize is in order. I can't imagine it would hurt anything though and it would lessen the chances of galling.
 
Posted by TA17Rem (Member # 794) on May 11, 2011, 03:18 PM:
 
Put the barrel vise as close to the chamber end of the barrel as possable....

And yes never seize compound shouldbe used on the threads and on the surface of shoulder that meets the front of the lug...

If you have problems getting the barrel loose from the action, put it in a freezer over-night and give it a try in the mourning..

My switch barrels are set up a little different than most, I just use a rubber strap wrench to loosen barrel and tighten it back up with.

[URL=[IMG]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f208/TA17Rem/Guns/th_12102009_190922.j pg[/IMG]][/URL]

[ May 11, 2011, 03:23 PM: Message edited by: TA17Rem ]
 
Posted by DAA (Member # 11) on May 11, 2011, 03:47 PM:
 
Clamp close to chamber and yes, use some grease or anti-sieze on the threads just for insurance. Most guys don't, and most of them never have a problem. But, I don't think it can hurt to use it and it should assure you don't have a problem with galling.

- DAA
 
Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on May 11, 2011, 05:02 PM:
 
Okay, thanks, everybody. Seemed like a good idea for some type of lube, and I have first hand knowledge of how stainless galls, especially pipe threads. Also, I thought about a strap wrench and rosin, but this should work fine. I have never seen a rubber strap wrench, most have a heavy canvas strap.

gh/lb
 
Posted by TA17Rem (Member # 794) on May 11, 2011, 06:16 PM:
 
Leonard the rubber strap wrench I got from a fleet & farm store for a few bucks...
I basicly just hand tightem my barrels rather than torgue them down with a vise and action wrench. A word of caution when its done this way the barrel can vibrate loose when rideing around in the truck all week.. So everytime I pick it up I give the barrel a twist with my hand to be sure.. I have only had this happen once but something someone should be aware of..
As far as accuracy goes the point of aim changes very little to none at all if the barrel has to be tightened....
While we are at it it dose'nt hurt to put a little dabb of never seize on the back-side of the bolt lugs or you could also use Shooters Choice All weather high tech grease which you may have on hand if you own one of those black rifles...
Reason for this is it also helps prevent galling on the back side of the lugs and also helps if you are load testing and a load gets to hot it will help ease openning of the bolt...
 
Posted by Dan Carey (Member # 987) on May 11, 2011, 09:34 PM:
 
Good luck. If you get in trouble call me. I know a trick or 2.
 




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