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Posted by Bofire (Member # 221) on June 24, 2007, 07:30 PM:
 
Okay Guys and Gals this should be fun.
Due to economic conditions I am ending up with a Remington 22-250 LV-SF it is in about new condition.
I am thinking about it being the base for a new rifle, maybe not. What do you think?

24 inch high quality barrel
Squared/trued/lapped action
new stock? Do the stocks with the Aluminum bedding rail thing in them, need to be bedded also?
trigger, work on or replace?

Or just leave it and shoot it?

Or just get the factory rifle rebedded?

Or??????
thanks for all the input
Carl
 

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Posted by furhvstr (Member # 1389) on June 24, 2007, 08:09 PM:
 
One possible approach assuming that you are content with the 22-250.
It is possible that that rifle is very accurate just the way it sits. Shoot it and see.
If it were me I would put in a Rifle Basix trigger, true the action, bed the stock and re-crown the factory barrel. Make sure it has a clean bore and shoot it. If it doesen't perform to your expectations then rebarrel. The only money you would lose would be the recrown.
Plenty of barrel manufacturers out their and Hart is my personnal favorite.

[ June 24, 2007, 08:10 PM: Message edited by: furhvstr ]
 

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Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on June 24, 2007, 08:32 PM:
 
I have been using that same model, a 700LVSF for a couple seasons now, on daylights. It came in 223 but I had it punched to Ackley Imp. and added the Sako extractor, but the trigger is fine the way it is.

I think I would use that rifle the way it sets. If you want a project, just get a used plain vanilla Model 700 and use the action for a tricked out custom job.

Good hunting. LB

edit: that stock is already pillar bedded, don't mess with it.

[ June 24, 2007, 08:34 PM: Message edited by: Leonard ]
 

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Posted by DAA (Member # 11) on June 25, 2007, 09:51 AM:
 
"Do the stocks with the Aluminum bedding rail thing in them, need to be bedded also?"

Yes, they do need to be bedded. Most I've checked really aren't too bad, but can definitely be improved with a simple skim bedding job. A few though, have been pretty bad and really needed the bedding fixed.

"trigger, work on or replace?"

Totally depends on your taste in triggers. For a hunting rifle, chances are that reworking the factory 700 trigger will be fine. Nothing wrong with replacing it either though.

Just my opinion, but I'd never pay to have an action properly trued, only to screw a factory barrel back on. And really, depending on exactly how far out the action is to begin with and just what is done to the action, it may not even be feasible to reuse the unaltered factory barrel on an action that has been totally blueprinted. The headspace will likely be changed, at the very least.

- DAA
 

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Posted by varmit hunter (Member # 37) on June 26, 2007, 12:16 PM:
 
I have NEVER disagreed with Dave, but blueprinting my 300 sendaro cut the groups by a third.

Good enough for my gunsmith Glen Pearce to shoot right beside John Lazzaroni shooting one of his "Birds" at 1000 yards. Glen beat him with my blueprinted sendero.

Total cost at that time $200.00. Five and a half inch group at 1000, priceless, and yes I used MasterCard.
 

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Posted by albert (Member # 98) on June 27, 2007, 05:35 AM:
 
One of the advantages of getting the action blue printed before bedding is that you only have to pay for one bedding job. If you get it bedded and then later get the action blue printed the action will have to be rebedded.
 

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Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on June 27, 2007, 12:52 PM:
 
I'd like to offer my take on all of these suggestions; which are good suggestions, I do not mean to detract from them.

Most of the modifications are simply unnecessary, for your average calling conditions. Shoot the rifle, if it groups under an inch or so, take it predator hunting. Now, if you have some other application, spend your money as you see fit, but not every coyote gun needs blueprinting. Everybody likes accuracy but it's smart to know when to recognize what is good enough. Look, you are shooting offhand, maybe from sticks and usually a distances of 100 yards, or so. There are many out of the box rifles that are very capable of handling this mission. So, first decide what your needs are, what you can afford, and the possible benefits. Realistically. My favorite rifle for daylight stands is about a one inch gun, and I love it...so does my son, in fact, he covets it. Sure, I wish it was a tack driver, and I will probably order a barrel one of these days, but in the meantime, it gets the job done.
See here:
http://www.affordableafricanhunting.co.za/Children%20of%20Tips%20on%20Free/first_client.htm

That 700 LVSF under discussion (I promise) is good enough for 95% of all predator hunting without blueprinting or rebedding.

Good hunting. LB
 

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Posted by TA17Rem (Member # 794) on June 27, 2007, 05:39 PM:
 
Yes Leonard you are correct, blue printing is not needed for the average caller and for coyotes under 200 yards.
I agree with DAA also on not putting the old barrel back on, sometimes you can luck out and have it shoot better than before. Alot of problems can arise from useing an old barrel. I would just as soon spend a few more dollars and have a new barrel installed.
Sorry Albert but trueing up the action has nothing to do with the out side of action, it canbe glassbedded before blue printing or after.
Maybe Andy could give some input on what he thinks you should do...
 

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Posted by Bofire (Member # 221) on June 27, 2007, 06:21 PM:
 
Leonard,
I 100% totally know you are correct, TA17 is correct also, except for coyotes aren't safe at 400 yards with that rifle,not 200.
It makes no sense what so ever. but I can afford it, and I sorta want a "really slick way cool rifle" If just hunting I'd just keep using my Tikkas. and I will use them.
What I was thinking for this rifle is more: a prize, a bragger, a beauty that shoots VERY well, one of a kind to retire with and shoot 'til I die.
A special possession, does that make any sense??
Prolly not, My Harleys prolly dont either, but I love them too.
I thank you all for your suggestions, I need more information about barrels,brands, quality.
Carl
 

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Posted by TA17Rem (Member # 794) on June 27, 2007, 06:35 PM:
 
If thats the case then go for it. I was like you once, wanted one good custom rifle. I had one built no holds barred. then another and another and so on.
There are alot of good barrel makers out there, Shilen, Pac-nor, Lihja my favorite, Douglas, hart and so on. go with the second best barrel they make, or the best its up to you..
 

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Posted by DAA (Member # 11) on June 28, 2007, 04:49 AM:
 
Lots of really good barrel makers out there. Lots. Be worth talking to your 'smith about, see if he has a preference. Myself, it would be either Lilja, Krieger or Hart. Most of my own barrels are Lilja.

- DAA
 

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Posted by 6mm284 (Member # 1129) on June 28, 2007, 11:23 AM:
 
Contrary to ta17 remark, blueprinting the action can change the length of the action at the front of the receiver and then change the location of the recoil lug.Metal often comes off the front of the reciever to square it and then changes slightly the the recoil lug position in the action. May have little of no effect but it does change..

[ June 28, 2007, 01:21 PM: Message edited by: 6mm284 ]
 

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Posted by TA17Rem (Member # 794) on June 28, 2007, 05:48 PM:
 
I have never had one that had to be trued that much, but none the less good point...
 

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Posted by DanS (Member # 316) on June 28, 2007, 07:39 PM:
 
If you are wanting a really nice rig, why true up a Remington? Not that it won't be really nice and all, I've gone that route myself. I suggest buying a better action. Perhaps a Stolle, BAT, or even a Stiller predator for a repeater. These actions shouldn't need truing and would really speak quality over a trued 700.

Just my $.02
 

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Posted by Bofire (Member # 221) on June 28, 2007, 09:04 PM:
 
Jack Roberts said go to a custom action also. Thanks I 'll search the names you supplied, do a little reading.
Carl
 

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Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on June 29, 2007, 09:00 AM:
 
If Jack said it, it must be true. I give up. Custom actions for coyote stands; give me a break.

Good hunting. LB
 

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Posted by Andy L (Member # 642) on June 29, 2007, 09:07 AM:
 

quote:

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Custom actions for coyote stands; give me a break.

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I couldnt agree more.

I like guns. I got several guns. I want more guns. But you dont NEED a custom action for a calling rifle. However, I guess with some of the stuff Ive done, I shouldnt laugh too hard. NEED and WANT are two differnt things. Usually WANT wins.
 

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Posted by DAA (Member # 11) on June 29, 2007, 02:40 PM:
 
Need and want really are two different things. And I've gotten to the point, when it comes to rifles, that I just don't care anymore. If I was doing anything with rifles based on need, I would not have bought a new rifle for probably 15 years now. And I'd have never done anything custom. No custom barrels. No wildcats. Just plain old factory rifles. That would have made the last 15 years a lot less interesting.

If I was going to do a full custom rifle, and didn't already have a Rem. action to build off, I'd probably do a full custom action. Actually, I shouldn't say that I'd "probably" do that, I "have" done that and for sure "would" do that again. My newest rifle built just for coyotes is on a Nesika action. Just doesn't cost that much more, compared to buying a Rem. and having it tricked out. But it is that much nicer (a tricked out Rem. is still a Rem., but a custom, ahhh... it's a "custom"). And lets face it, a full custom rifle for coyotes is all about want, nothing to do with need. So much nicer is much better.

On the other hand... If I already had a good donor action sitting there, paid for, I'd just use it. But since I stopped buying factory rifles a long time ago, I don't ever have donor actions just sitting there anymore .

- DAA
 

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Posted by 6mm284 (Member # 1129) on June 29, 2007, 03:09 PM:
 
my next custom coyote calling rifle will be a custom action.... as soon as a get a set of custom coyote calling underwear to match.
 

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Posted by sparkyibewlocal440 (Member # 397) on July 01, 2007, 06:07 PM:
 
Be real careful there 6mm-284.....
Building a full blown custom is very addicting!Many hours of homework will need to be invested regarding stock choice, stock color, length of pull,barrel length,barrel contour,etc.etc.That just scratchs the surface.Fun.

After you cross that line,next to follow, will be Wildcat chamberings.Custom made ammo,loads you can't buy at the store.More fun.

Very gratifing to have a rifle built to your specs,and ammo you have assembled around your rifle.It will be a one of kind set up.

It's difficult to explain the rational to someone who has to ask,why go custom when a stocker will do?

Be careful,Sparky
 

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Posted by sparkyibewlocal440 (Member # 397) on July 01, 2007, 06:13 PM:
 
That's a big Ooops 6mm-284,sorry.....That Bud's for you Bofire!
 

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Posted by Q-Wagoner (Member # 33) on July 01, 2007, 09:05 PM:
 
The cheapest way is to just shoot it like it is if it shoots to your liking. Anymore I am of the opinion that if it’s factory “fix it.”

If you are set on customizing it then I would have the action looked at. Most all of them can benefit from a tune up job. Truing the action and bolt face and maybe bushing the firing pin is your best-spent money. For a little more you could have it timed and the threads cleaned up. I wouldn’t bush the bolt its self unless it was really sloppy. I probably wouldn’t bush the bolt anyway. For around 100 dollars you can get a custom one. It won’t take long to eat up 250 dollars or more tricking out a 700 action. Unless you have a really special factory barrel I would pawn it off on e-bay and get into a custom one.

I really like Remington’s laminated stocks. Bed your newly barreled action in it and you should have a very fine rifle.

BUT, What are you going to shoot out of it? If you are just going to shoot factory ammo I would leave it as is and not spend the money customizing it. Shooting factory ammo through a fine custom varmint rifle is like running e-85 unleaded through a formula 1 racecar. You need to feed your rifle only the best quality components to realize its potential.

Good hunting.

Q,
 

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Posted by 6mm284 (Member # 1129) on July 02, 2007, 06:05 PM:
 
That's ok sparky. I shoot custom rifles also and enjoy having something just for me. Then to take it another step further I set up my shop and started building my own custom rifles for myself . required machines and tooling and lots of practice and patience..but hunting with a rifle selected and built for yourself is the ultimate custom rifle satisfaction and is definately not a practical way to go about custom rifles. but oh well.
 

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Posted by varmit hunter (Member # 37) on July 02, 2007, 07:47 PM:
 
The neat thing now if you wont to go with a Remington action your FFL can order just the action from Midway.

I walked out the door with a stainless action for $234.00 and couple dozen goose decoys. No barrel or stock to try and make gumbo out of.
 

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Posted by Bofire (Member # 221) on July 02, 2007, 08:22 PM:
 
Very good input here, I like Q's comment about the ammo. I once had this 22LR that shot little tiny groups, but regular 22 shells would not even chamber, had to have $10.00-$20.00 for 50 shells, ammo. minimum. Sold it.
Am I willing to commit the time and money to do this right?
I dont know!! thanks to everyone!
Carl
 

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Posted by Tim Behle (Member # 209) on July 02, 2007, 09:08 PM:
 
Leonard,

It's easy to justify a custom action on a coyote rifle.

1) I don't have one, and I want one

2) Factory rifles aren't worth didly when all you have is a head shot on a 200 yard Jackrabbit.

3) I don't have one and I want one.
 

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Posted by Dan Carey (Member # 987) on July 02, 2007, 10:16 PM:
 
Tim, sorry to hear of your medical problem.

If you want a custom, you should have one. Just ask Santa next time you see him. Haven't seen you around Tucson in a long time.
 

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Posted by varmit hunter (Member # 37) on July 03, 2007, 10:11 AM:
 
Hell Tim. You know how much justification I needed to build a 1K gun. I only have one pipeline in the entire county I can shoot it down. at least it's full of hogs.
 

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Posted by albert (Member # 98) on July 07, 2007, 10:21 AM:
 
TA i don't know who works on your guns but every time I have had an action trued the smith has squared away the front of the action. this will change the distance between the recoil lug and the bedding screws. Not much of a change but a change non the less. You do bed your recoil lug, don't you?
 

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Posted by TA17Rem (Member # 794) on July 07, 2007, 10:59 AM:
 
Albert; Yes i have the lug bedded in the back and the sides. A piece of masking tape is placed on the front of lug before bedding to leave a small gap in the front of lugg. As for trueing up the front of action the smith only takes off enough material to square it up. some actions don't require much metal to be removed...If alot of metal has to be removed then all he does is use his mill to remove some of bedding in action and rebed, no big deal...One of my rifles does not have a lug, the action is glued into the stock...

[ July 07, 2007, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: TA17Rem ]
 

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Posted by albert (Member # 98) on July 08, 2007, 06:07 AM:
 
I guess that was my orginal point Tim. If you get action work done at a later time. You will probably have to spring for another bedding job.

I will admit it will be just a skim bed but it still takes the smith time thus costing you money.
 

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Posted by coyote whacker (Member # 639) on July 08, 2007, 06:09 AM:
 
Custom rifles are nice, but are they needed for killing coyotes out to 500 yrds? I think a guy can do well with a remington or other factory guns as long as you do your part. Good stock,good trigger pull etc. I have a 25-06 I just broke in, rem 700 SP and I get 3/4" groups with it.My 22-250 rem heavy barrel can and has taken jacks at 200 yrds and beyond.

Sure I would like to have an HS Precision varmint, but 2435.00 is a pile of cash. Would it kill coyotes better to that 500 yrd mark? I have doubts. The best thing for a factory gun and they make them darn well these days, is to handload, use a good scope and tweak it with some time and a few extra bucks, and I'm betting the majority of them can be at or under 3/4" groups.

Still doesn't mean I would not like the HS precision or a surgeon action some day, until the lottery comes through I'll keep killing things with my factory remingtons.
 

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Posted by FOsteology (Member # 787) on July 08, 2007, 09:15 PM:
 
Carl,

I had a LVSF 22-250 a couple years ago. All that was needed was a trigger job. Re-did the crown and bedding and it would consistently shoot under 1/2 MOA with a couple different factory loads.

Before sinking alot of $$ into it (unless of course you really want to go that route) I would recommend spending some time with it and see what it'll do.

You might be surprised.
 

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Posted by furhvstr (Member # 1389) on July 09, 2007, 05:19 PM:
 
Whacker a 3/4 inch group off a bench converts to about a two inch group off sticks or bipod which converts to about a eight inch group at three hundy. Point being that if your gonna shoot longer distances the rifle needs to be as accurate as possible. Some factory rifles will shoot 1\2 or less with some work but MOST customs will. (three shot groups at 100 under good conditions)
 

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Posted by Andy L (Member # 642) on July 09, 2007, 05:42 PM:
 
Back to this argument. 9 outta 10 cant hit a coyote at 500 yards to begin with, no matter the gun. Not in a hunting situation with sticks or pod, no flags or spotter.

(stirring pot)
 

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Posted by TA17Rem (Member # 794) on July 09, 2007, 06:35 PM:
 
I think there are at least nine members here that could hit a coyote at 500.
 

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Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on July 09, 2007, 06:37 PM:
 
Excellent! And nobody deserves it more. Congratulations! LB
 

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Posted by Andy L (Member # 642) on July 09, 2007, 06:37 PM:
 
Id allow that....

edit/test

[ July 09, 2007, 06:51 PM: Message edited by: Leonard ]
 

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Posted by furhvstr (Member # 1389) on July 09, 2007, 08:10 PM:
 
Thats why I said "three hundy" in my post. I would love to line up a bunch of guys at three hundred and watch them try to hit a pie plate off sticks much less 500.
I have killed 20 or 30 over the years at 3-350 but only one past 500. (559) to be precise. I think he was the one out of 30 or so that I've shot at at that distance so the odds for me must be 1 in 30 at that range. Pretty good odds for the coyotes.
Where do guys get 500 yard shots anyways?
I remember when I bought my first rangefinder. What a slap in the face. Thought I was a good judge of distance but turned out I was really bad past 200.
 

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Posted by Andy L (Member # 642) on July 09, 2007, 08:52 PM:
 
I LOVE the new title LB.
 

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Posted by Tim Behle (Member # 209) on July 09, 2007, 10:04 PM:
 
furhvstr,

Loved your comment about the rangefinder.

I think that 80% of the guys who claim to hit coyotes past 200 yards, need to take out a range finder and find out what 200 yards actually looks like.

Sure would take a lot of bullshit out of the story telling though!
 

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Posted by albert (Member # 98) on July 10, 2007, 11:26 AM:
 
Furhvstr you are right off of sticks it is hard. If you are in area you can lay prone it becomes much much simpler. Three hundred laying prone with a decent rifle/bipod is not really all that difficult.
 

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Posted by furhvstr (Member # 1389) on July 10, 2007, 08:10 PM:
 
Three hundy on a coyote of a bipod is not too tough. Prolly 3-4 out of five if their standing still and wind aint too bad. Things really change at 330 plus.
Shooting bigger and hotter rifles helps in the battle and it's fun to practice at those ranges but just aint gonna come together at 350 plus too often.
I personally shoot more bobcats than coyotes the last few years. At night with a short bipod lying prone a two hundred yard cat is about an 80 % proposition. I usually try and work to at least 160 yds. At that range I will be point of aim and will have shed a little energy thus a little gentler on the fur.
As the years go by my cat guns get smaller and smaller. First a .222 then a .17 rem followed by a .17 Mach IV. and now a .19 Badger.
Sorry guys just rambling here, cold beer and a computer.

[ July 10, 2007, 08:17 PM: Message edited by: furhvstr ]
 

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Posted by furhvstr (Member # 1389) on July 10, 2007, 08:14 PM:
 
A bobcat is avg 2.75 inches c to c on eyeballs and barely 5 inches across the chest with the fur off so I don't want anybody talking about no 500 yd bobcats.

[ July 10, 2007, 08:16 PM: Message edited by: furhvstr ]
 

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Posted by coyote whacker (Member # 639) on July 11, 2007, 07:42 PM:
 
Where I live you can get plenty of 500+ yrd shots and some that hang up due to calling pressure on some ranches.

The more one shoots at 300-500 yrds the better one gets. You need to be more precise on your aim, cheek weld, trigger squeeze and knowing the exact range, as the further you get out it magnifies any mistakes on the shooters part, not the gun for the most part.

Long range jacks give you plenty of time to work on these things or shooting targets.Not many will become a good longer range shooter if you don't shoot at those ranges and practice the techniques to make those shots better %.
 

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Posted by scruffy (Member # 725) on July 12, 2007, 07:45 AM:
 

quote:

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I think that 80% of the guys who claim to hit coyotes past 200 yards, need to take out a range finder and find out what 200 yards actually looks like.

Sure would take a lot of bullshit out of the story telling though!

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From all the stories I've read, and the few DVD's I've watched, I thought I was a very sucky shot, "distance challenged". When I'm sitting using sticks it seems 200 yards is my cutoff line. Under 200 yards my shot to kill ratio is really good. Over 200 yards I almost always miss. Prone is a different story, but on sticks, which is 95% of my stands, out past 200 I suck. Since I thought this was well below par I've been trying different sticks, seats, etc in hopes of finding a configuration that would push my 200 yard line to say 300 yards when shooting off sticks, because I thought everyone else consistenly killed coyotes out to 300 yards off sticks.

Sounds like maybe my expectations were inflated based on flawed influences...

Regardless, I did burn some powder and have learned a few things about my long range shooting, like I shoot much better with a seat cushion with back support stabizing my back, not to mention the comfort. I'm currently using the "Wedge" seat from cabelas. Not as good as a solid tree to sit against, but big solid trees aren't always where I need them, LOL. I can't "scoot" to my extreme left or right as well being craddle in a seat with back support, but being in comfort I sit still longer, so it's all a compromise I guess.

Anyway, my back being supported or not supported seems to make a bigger accuracy difference off sticks than does if the rifle I'm shooting groups 1" or .5".

But in the end, if you want a custom rifle, that's all the justification you need. We're mostly all adults here, we don't need to justify toys.

later,
scruffy

[ July 12, 2007, 07:50 AM: Message edited by: scruffy ]
 

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Posted by jbmartin (Member # 651) on July 12, 2007, 08:28 PM:
 
Three hundy?...I saw 3Toes get one so far out that it took him 45 minutes just to go out and drag it back, on flat ground to boot!

Actually I was wanting to see what my designation went to from the ones previous...they make me LOL.

JB
 

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Posted by Kelly Jackson (Member # 977) on July 13, 2007, 08:53 AM:
 
furhvstr - why are your cats hanging up so far out? I try to target cats as much as possible during our season with day time sets.
I don't night hunt here in Oklahoma, but have hunted some at night in Texas.
Do you think it is the light and shadows??

regards
Kelly
 

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Posted by furhvstr (Member # 1389) on July 13, 2007, 03:10 PM:
 
Most day cats are close encounters. A guy would have a hard time picking out a cat at longer distances.
At night in this open country where I hunt I can see their eyes as far as my lights will shine. If they set still at 150 bang their dead.
Some cats usually adults will come in strong and take it with a shotgun. If they get shotgun close and I don't get a shot cause of brush or whatever I will lose quite a few of those as they have made me and head out. Sucks to have one 30 yds and it get away. I usually take the first shot offered within 160 or so. Not because they hung up. Many cats at night come in kinda lazy and get distracted on the way in. Not uncommon to have one working you and then they just start wondering off. They can really act screwy sometimes. Most offer you several opportunities to pop them.
Out of 69 last season only about 40 or so came to the call. Anyone can get those cats. Figuring out how to get those others was the fun part.
 

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Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on July 13, 2007, 03:23 PM:
 
You walk them up. Go after them, they never expect it.

Good hunting. LB
 

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Posted by furhvstr (Member # 1389) on July 13, 2007, 03:30 PM:
 
Another one of those things I thought I thought up first. Turns out I didn't.
 

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Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on July 13, 2007, 04:32 PM:
 
Mercer, you have the goods, I can see that you know what you are doing.

Now, I don't know what year you were born, but I was walking up cats in the sixties. I thought I invented it, but who knows? I know I never heard of anybody trying in before I did. Of course, I have been telling people about how it's done, on the Internet for probably ten years now? It's another one of those things that sound like so much talk. If a cat wanders off, and you are able, it pays to go over there. He might not be too far from where you last saw him. Walking up a cat at night requires a little finesse, but it's very effective, if he's stubborn and won't come in, for whatever reason?

You probably know everything you need and then some, but us old coots may have a few tricks you haven't heard?

Good hunting. LB
 

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Posted by furhvstr (Member # 1389) on July 13, 2007, 04:44 PM:
 
I sure you old geezers know a few tricks. Hell I thought I invented the flip up red lens thing.
Was born in 66. Been calling since 83 when a friend and me borrowed (stole)a small tape player from the library at high school and set it up in a wash with johnny playing and then hiked something like two hundred yards up a hill so we could see them coming. Wind was blowing prolly thirty mph. Years later still hunt that same spot, occasionally with sucess.
What about a laser pointer set in a small flexible tripod to set up after the shot. Just walk up to the spot on the hill and there it is. Mine is so small it fits in my pants pocket. So many nights by myself sure makes it easier to locate my prize.
 

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Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on July 14, 2007, 12:57 AM:
 
Yeah, I hunted with Gerald Stewart one night and showed him my laser for downed animals. We used it too. He was impressed, and I bet he uses one ever since.

Good hunting. LB
 

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Posted by Kelly Jackson (Member # 977) on July 14, 2007, 12:07 PM:
 
Walking up on cats works - last Sempterber in Texas we had one in a plowed field, one ol boy walked out and almost hit him with a dirt clod.

We were just messing with them that night we called in 4 easy cats and never fired a shot.
Rumer has it you can use that laser pointer to coax a night time cat closer. Shine in on the ground in front of him and walk him into gun range...I got to get to Texas more...Kelly

Lord have mercy...I am a wife beater today...

[ July 14, 2007, 12:10 PM: Message edited by: Kelly Jackson ]
 

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Posted by Leonard (Member # 2) on July 14, 2007, 12:41 PM:
 

quote:

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I got to get to Texas more...Kelly

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